[台灣-基隆] 雨港古宅。基隆許梓桑古厝



恰似一位喜歡喧鬧卻蘊藏心事的漁婦,
有點保守卻落落大方。
一開始,我是這麼認識基隆,在小雨清清粉飾後的喧囂港邊,
大船入港。


對於想要感受基隆,認識這個陌生城市的旅者,走上許梓桑古厝登高望遠絕對是充滿感動與思古情懷,原來基隆是這樣的面貌,在心中我低聲驚呼。

許梓桑古厝原屬於雨港名望許梓桑先生,其為基隆日治時期極其重要的地方仕紳,曾擔任基隆區長二十年之久,對地方有許多貢獻而且受到眾人的愛戴,日本當時的知名媒體人橋本白水甚至曾稱其為「基隆第一人者」。



許梓桑古厝建於昭和年間,當時許梓桑已年近六十,當時決定隱退輕享人生的許梓桑為了能展望基隆的山海景緻,託人在玉田山上興建一棟氣派的兩層樓磚造建築。

《基隆市志人物篇》許梓桑小傳有云:「晚年築迺園,構慶餘堂於玉田山腰,優游林泉,鼓吹詩學。」文中慶餘堂即是許梓桑古厝,而迺園如今已幾乎不復存在。斷垣殘壁,風蝕傾樑,一層層的階梯直上,眼前『慶餘堂』三字依稀可見,雜草重生的廂房內早已人去樓空。


  古老的閩式建築,採用左右廂房對稱相開的方式搭造。除了用頂級「TR」磚砌成,牆面與女兒牆上還鋪有日本人驕傲的洗石子工法,精緻的技術僅管已存時近百且滿目瘡痍依然足以展現當時建築師對於慶餘堂的重視。此外,慶餘堂的牆上依然看得出當時許梓桑先生對於自我道德的要求,採用代表君子的竹節圓窗自我警惕,讓人深刻感觸仕紳的品性是該跟隨其一生至死的。

北風清徐,穿梭過老榕與窗櫺後發出雋永聲響,歷史在斜陽清灑的殘破中無語陳述。慶餘堂最有趣的並不是建築物本身有些什麼特色,而是他給予拜訪者的獨特感觸,除了可以將基隆廟口一帶盡收眼底,還可以欣賞豔紅的黃昏清灑雨港,念舊與糾結,是在這個角度所看到的基隆。

  許多人難以置信原來慶餘堂就僅在廟口老街後上方。行腳旅行多年,我也是最近才體會到,真正的寧靜並不在真正無聲的地方,反而時常與鬧區僅有一線之隔,妳不是真正的感受安靜,但你卻是真正的平靜。


陽光斜射,歷史在眼前流轉。


慶餘堂的牆上依然看得出當時許梓桑先生對於自我道德的要求,採用代表君子的竹節圓窗自我警惕。



TR 磚是指由「台灣煉瓦株式會社」生產的機器磚,TR是「Taiwan Renga」的縮寫,「Renga」是「煉瓦」兩字的日語發音。這種磚頭比台灣傳統磚頭更耐震而且穩固,磚上印制的圖案除了當作認證商標外,也讓磚頭上水泥時有更好的磨擦力。


黃昏夕照是古厝獨特的景緻,居高臨上的日治舊樓北部就屬許梓桑古厝最美了。

只可惜知道的朋友並不多。



許梓桑古厝另一特色就是與植物的結合,不過可千萬別小看這些植物,他的破壞力可是非常強大的,如果不控制其生長,老樓的崩解是可預知的。



古厝共有兩個平台,結構特殊。第一個平台式建築物的一樓,結構為磚樓,第二個平台則是三合院造型的閩式建築。除此之外許梓桑古厝還闢有地下室,但樓梯已經損毀無法下去。

兩個平台都可遼望基隆。


地址:
基隆市仁愛區愛四路15號
開放時間:
無管制
交通資訊:
【大眾運輸】
搭乘火車至基隆市,在步行或搭乘公車前往廟口夜市後步行六到八分鐘可至。
【自行開車】
基隆廟口不便於停車,不建議開車前往,若要開車需找到車位後步行前往。巷內無法停車。





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